Gelato Bar & Espresso Caffe: A Taste of Italy in the Valley

BY PAULINE ADAMEK

Tujunga Avenue in Studio City (just south of Moorpark) is rapidly becoming LA’s very own Little Italy (at last!), what with Caioti Pizza (the original Cali-style pizza),  Press Panini and that old-school red-sauce Italian joint, Vitellos. Village Gourmet has an array of wonderful imported goodies too.

If you’re in the east valley, hopefully you’ve already discovered a cozy little coffee and dessert place called Gelato Bar & Espresso Caffe’. If you’re in the rest of the valley—or over the hill, it’s worth the trip.

Gail Silverton and Joel Guttman Photo: robertevans.com

This neighborhood gathering place is courtesy of the creative brain of Gail Silverton — who runs it with partner and husband, Joel Gutman — she is the sister of  Nancy Silverton (Osteria Mozza and La Brea Bakery). Gail was also the owner of  the Neighborhood Pre-school in Sherman Oaks and Studio City.

Featuring some of the best espresso in LA, they serve roasted, Italian-style Ecco coffee. You can have a cappuccino or latte plus a muffin, pastry, bagel, oatmeal or panini in the morning of afternoon, and then return later on in the day to sample their superb gelati, hand made locally by Alessandro Fontana, whose family has reportedly been in the gelati business for the past century.  They are also stocked with Italian sodas, gourmet teas, and sipping chocolate.

The gelato is made locally. Photo: robertevans.com

Italy has a long tradition of ice creams and frozen ices. ‘Gelati’ simply means ‘frozen stuff.’  Apparently Catherine de Medici, of Florence, introduced this novelty to the French and then the luscious fad took off in Europe.

Here at Gelato Bar, they’ve gone to great lengths to achieve a friendly, neighborhood trattoria vibe with its gaily painted striped walls, an indoor fountain courtyard, funky light fixtures and indoor plants on terra cotta tiled floors. Daily newspapers, including the New York Times, are available.

With 24 flavors on display at any one time, they actually rotate twenty five of some of the creamiest and tangiest tastes you could ask for. Coco (coconut) is so pungent, it makes you feel light-headed, just like when Keith Richards fell out of a coconut tree.  Tiramisu competes with Zabaglione for creamy sweetness. Their Caffe e Ciccolato (chocolate and coffee mixture) is sinfully dark and rich. The Stracciatella is vanilla laced with chocolate chips and they have a few chocolate ones with nuts, such as hazlenut (Nocciola). They have a sherbetty Aranciata Rosso (blood orange) flavor which is delectable and various other fruit flavors such as Ananas (pineapple), Fragiola (strawberry) Banana and, of course, Limone (lemon). Mango is delicious too (if only they had Passionfruit *sigh*).  Also offered daily are a selection of dairy-free and sugar-free flavors.

I was seduced by their Dulce de Leche (caramel) in a sugar cone ($4.50).  Pricey but delicious, I’m going back for a pound (a pint) of four flavors in a styrofoam container — $16. That might work out cheaper than the little plastic cups and cones ($3.50 and up), but my waistline may hate me in a few week’s time.

Gelato Bar serves expresso and food as well. Photo: robertevans.com

Actually, they say gelati is less fattening than ice-cream, seeing as it is made with water or milk (but loads of sugar, naturally) rather than cream or buttermilk. So there is 50-60% less butterfat and a third fewer calories. Also gelati generally has 35% less air than ice cream, which means you get a dense and extremely flavorful product that melts faster.

If you don’t see Pistacchio (pistachio) at Gelato Bar (their most popular flavor) it’s probably out the back waiting for a free spot in the case.

So creamy, so divine – so damn close to where I live…

Gelato Bar and Espresso Caffe Wholesale & Retail 4342 ½ Tujunga Ave Studio City, CA 91604 818 487 1717 Open from 10am ’till 10pm, ’till 11pm on Friday and Saturday evenings. Be advised, parking can be tough in the evenings so take care not to park in the restricted zones.

Pauline Adamek is a Hollywood-based film, theater, and food critic who writes for FilmInk Australia, the Los Angeles Daily News and the Sun Community Newspapers, as well as various websites under the “nom du net” Max Million. Contact her atwww.paulineadamek.com