BY KAREN YOUNG
The San Fernando Valley has become saturated with sushi bars — many serving “all you can eat” and “Americanized” combination rolls no one has heard about in Japan. There are only a select few with authentic Tokyo style sushi with an emphasis on the purity of the fish. One of the best is 4 on 6 in Encino.
Located in the back of a strip mall anchored by Tony Roma’s, 4 on 6 is a hidden treasure. Co-owners Saito and Jun, who greet their customers like old friends, named their restaurant after the “4 On 6” jazz guitar beat. Piped in jazz music usually plays softly in the background and Sunday evenings offers live jazz. Saito is the Master Chef and has trained his chefs (such as the affable Kenji who made most of the dishes pictured here) to prepare their creations with absolute ingenuity and finesse.
Big Eye Hawaiian Tuna seared with homemade ponzu sauce and jalapenos. Photo: Karen Young
What makes 4 on 6 really special is the fish selection and their precision use of homemade sauces. Very few sushi restaurants in the San Fernando Valley carry such a wide selection of seasonal fish, much of which is imported from Japan, mostly from the island of Kyushu.
As an example, last week’s selections included Scorpion fish, barrelfish, orange back seabream, blue fin tuna, king mackerel, Japanese mackerel, spanish mackerel, grunt, live octopus, flying fish, spear squid, Japanese wild baby salmon, alfonsino, dark banded fish, Japanese sea eel, largehead hairtail and baby yellowtail.
A combination of delights: Tuna, seared Largehead hairtail with ginger on top with okura on the side, halibut with rolled with shiso leave, and baby yellowtail. Photo: Donald Fenning
With an emphasis on sushi nigiri (fish slices on rice) and sashimi, special sauces are freshly prepared on the premises and used to add a subtle essence of flavor to the fish. These include Yuzu juice, Daidai juice, Sudachi juice and Ponzu. Citrus pepper paste and South American pepper paste are also used on various sashimi dishes. (Note: This means no extra dipping in soy sauce is needed.)
4 on 6 has a well appointed regular menu, but the real treat here is to sit at the modern, yet rustic wood sushi bar and order omakase (chef’s choice) — of course this is the most expensive way to go, but if you’re serious about your sushi, go for it. Let Saito and his posse of chefs do their thing. Eating this way is all about the surprise in simple pleasures.
Seared Salmon sashimi with Yuzu juice, olive oil and Yuzu pepper topping. Photo: Donald Fenning
On a recent visit, I savored salmon sushi with seaweed kelp topping that is slow cooked with rice vinegar, light soy sauce and a hint of sugar; a rich big eye Hawaiian tuna seared with homemade ponzu and jalapenos; a most sultry sea urchin; a crisp Santa Barbara sweet shrimp with a light tempura coating; delicate sea bream with Yuzu pepper sauce; and a buttery seared salmon sashimi with Yuzu juice, olive oil and Yuzu pepper topping. Everything was tender and beautifully presented with simple bursts of flavor that makes the fish seem to just literally melt in your mouth.
Santa Barbara sweet shrimp with a light tempura coating. Photo: Karen Young
There is a wonderful selection of sake from different regions in Japan. Saito brings choices from his hometown in Yamagata Prefecture, as well as from Torano-ko and Otokoyama, Kamotsuru from Hiroshima and Hakkai-san from Niigata. They also serve Sho-chu (distilled rice or buck wheat) and Asahi draft beer (brewed in Japan).
If sushi rolls are your thing, note that 4 On 6 only serves limited rolls, such as california roll, spicy tuna, albacore and a few others to serve certain customer needs. They won’t kick you out for ordering a roll like at Sushi Nozawa, but you also won’t find a list of high concept rolls offered at other sushi bars dotting Ventura Blvd. However, they do serve a delectable version of the ever popular Spicy Tuna on rice cakes (called biscotti here).
Sea Bream with Yuzu pepper sauce Photo: Donald Fenning
Make no mistake, the regular menu also stands on its own and includes variations of tempura, teriyaki, salads and specials like Black Cod, Stuffed Shitake Mushrooms stuffed with Spicy Tuna, Japanese-style Diced Steak and Crab Meat-stuffed Squid. And for all you Dyno-mite lovers, 4 On 6 has got it covered. The Kuwayaki Beef and Kuwayaki Chicken made with a homemade soy -sake sauce is a delicious spin on usual Japanese meat dishes. There are good deals for lunch with combination specials ($10-$16.50), but those are not offered for dinner.
From the music to the carefully tended and creative cuisine, 4 on 6 has got a rhythm all its own.
4 on 6, 16573 Ventura Blvd. Encino, CA 91436 (818) 501-7191. Children welcome, but there is no designated menu. $$$. Lunch: 11:30 am – 2 pm, Dinner 5:30 -10 pm (Mon-Thurs), 5:30 – 10:30 pm (Fri-Sat), 5:30-9:30 pm (Sunday, Live Music starts around 7 pm). Regular menu items: $4.50-$25. A la carte Sushi and Omakase (price according to order).
Karen Young is the Editor/Publisher of My Daily Find. Email: karen@mydailyfind.com
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